Original photo by Nailya Yakubova/ Shutterstock
Brunch has an understandable hold on Americans — after all, who can pass up the opportunity to enjoy a delicious smattering of sweet and savory plates (alongside good company, of course)? Apparently, Americans of the past couldn’t say no either, gathering to share food and fun at so-called “waffle frolics.” These waffle-eating get-togethers were most popular during the colonial era, eventually petering out by the mid-20th century. At their peak, they were elaborate, multicourse meals that showcased freshly ironed waffles as the main course.
Oops, incorrect!
It's a factCalifornia inventors and brothers Frank, Anthony, and Sam Dorsa debuted frozen cooked waffles, dubbed “Froffles” (“frozen” + “waffles”), in 1953. They changed the name to Eggos after the name of their company, which originally sold an egg-rich mayonnaise.
Little is recorded about the particulars of early waffle frolics, but one description, by William Livingstone, a 21-year-old Yale student who recounted his party experience in a 1744 letter, describes the soiree as a lavish affair. “After a few games, a magnificent supper appeared in grand order and decorum,” he wrote. “[B]ut for my own part I was not a little grieved that so luxurious a feast should come under the name of a wafel-frolic, because if this be the case I must expect but a few wafel-frolics for the future.”
Waffles have been widely eaten throughout Europe since the Middle Ages, sold by street vendors and often consumed on religious holidays. Eventually, they made their way to the American colonies alongside the Pilgrims, and it was in the New World where they were paired with maple syrup for the first time. Culinary lore sometimes suggests it was founding father Thomas Jefferson who ignited the waffle frolic craze in the 1790s upon his return from France, after he arrived with four waffle irons in his luggage. As president, Jefferson reportedly served the treat to Meriwether Lewis at the White House prior to the Lewis and Clark expedition. However, historians at Jefferson’s Monticello estate say there’s little evidence that the third president heavily influenced colonial waffle culture. It’s possible the crispy, grid-marked cakes were destined to become an American favorite all on their own.
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John F. Kennedy’s waffle recipe is stored in the National Archives.
Presidential favorite foods are often a topic of interest on the campaign trail; after all, it’s interesting to think the nation’s chief executive might like the same foods we do. While President John F. Kennedy was known for his fondness for soup (particularly New England fish chowder), it’s likely he was also a fan of waffles. Historians at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum report they have been unable to verify the 35th President’s favorite breakfast food, but during his time as a senator, Kennedy frequently mailed out copies of his preferred waffle recipe, possibly drafted by First Lady Jackie Kennedy. It’s likely the formula — which swaps regular flour for lighter cake flour and uses whipped egg whites — was dispatched from the legislator’s office upon request from constituents, or submitted to cookbook compilations sold as fundraisers. Today, Kennedy’s recipe remains available to the public, preserved by the National Archives for endless future breakfasts.
Nicole Garner Meeker is a writer and editor based in St. Louis. Her history, nature, and food stories have also appeared at Mental Floss and Better Report.
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